There's no doubt that building a pre-formed or liner pond involves a certain amount of hard work, so Nathan James Dodd thinks that a raised version from Intalogs or a Blagdon is well worth considering.
Today the most popular way to build a pond is to use either a pre-formed shape or a liner, concrete is more time consuming and can be very demanding, Dan Everton compares the merits of each method.
With the advent of modern plastics, liner and pre-formed ponds have overtaken concrete as the preferred method for constructing ponds, each has its own merits and this comparison will enable you to make up your own mind.
Have a plan in mind of what you want to achieve and outline the desired shape with rope or sand. Then you can start digging.
Create shelves at different depths to accommodate various types of aquatic plants, perhaps very shallow at 2ins, then 5 inches and wide enough to hold containers, and 18 inches. Overall depth should be at least 2 ft and 4 ft if you want to keep fish.
It might sound obvious but make sure that the liner you purchase is the correct size for the pond you are building. Measure the length, width and depth of the pond. Then, double the depth and add the length and width. Now add 2 feet for overlapping the pond edge. This will give you the correct size.
The hole must be level so use a spirit level balanced on a block of wood to check all around the sides. Remove any sharp stones or tree roots that may pierce the liner.
Now line the hole with a layer of sand or other material such as old carpet. If possible warm the liner in sunlight to make it more flexible and shape it into the hole, try to keep wrinkles to a minimum and add a little water to help settle it into place.
Slowly fill with water making sure the liner doesn’t stretch. Trim off any excess liner above the water line and use mortar to fix patio stones or similar around the pond edge to keep the liner in place.
Place the pond (the correct side up, not upside down) where it is to be positioned and mark out by drawing around the shape in sand. Next measure the shelves. Then dig out the shape including the shelves but adding about 5cm to the depth to allow for a lining of sand.
Remove any stones or roots as they might pierce the liner. Then place the liner into the hole and adjust the shape if necessary, making sure it is level (use a spirit level balanced on a piece of wood across the width and length of the pond). Once you are satisfied the shape is correct, line the hole with the sand and return the pond and it should fit snugly.
When you are sure the pond is level, use sand to back fill and compact it to prevent the pond from moving as it is filled with water.
However carefully installed there’s always a chance of some movement, so once filled, leave the pond for at least one week before adding edging stones, plants or other features.
First the hole needs to be dug, about 6 inches below what will be the final depth, making sure that the levels, angles and sides are accurately measured - a formal pond needs to look exactly true.
Then dig a trench, about 4 inches deep by 8 inches across, around the sides at the base of the hole and fill this trench with concrete to provide foundations for the walls.
With the bottom of the hole level, add a layer of sand, compact it firmly adjacent to the wall foundations, and lay 3 inches of concrete. Allow to dry, then add some galvanised mesh and pour another 3 inches of concrete on top.
Once the cement has dried use breeze blocks to form the walls, filing in any gaps and hollows with concrete.
After 48 hours, dampen the walls and skim the entire hole with a ½ inch layer of fibre reinforced cement. Next, use mortar to fix an edging of bricks and slabs, allowing for a 2 or 3 inch overhang. Paint the inside with a good quality waterproof sealant, when that is dry you can introduce water.
Finally, bear in mind that for all types of pond, filters, lights and other features will need electrical and hose connections, so remember to allow space for these while adding any edging materials.
For information on how to introduce plants into your pond, read our blog 'How To Transform Your Pond With Plants'.
Robert Hall was delighted to present Westland Horticulture with an award for Best Consumer Product Packaging for their product Westland SafeLawn at the GIMA awards 2017 and who went on to win its top award the GIMA Sword of Excellence.
Many of you will have seen the latest episode of the popular ITV series 'Love Your Garden', but did you spot the three items that Robert Hall from GardenSite donated to help transform a Salford garden from wasteland to English cottage garden?
Robert Hall was recently invited to the party night at Hampton Court as part of Forest Garden Products demonstration event. There they presented their exciting new gardening products, some of which are available now to purchase on GardenSite and others coming relatively soon ready for the next season.
Robert Hall, Senior Partner at GardenSite has been selling Barlow Tyrie furniture since 1952 and so has had his fair share of experience of Barlow Tyrie's products, including the popular Equinox range. Robert shares his review of the Equinox garden furniture range for those interested in knowing a little more about this collection before purchasing.