There's no doubt that building a pre-formed or liner pond involves a certain amount of hard work, so Nathan James Dodd thinks that a raised version from Intalogs or a Blagdon is well worth considering.
Today the most popular way to build a pond is to use either a pre-formed shape or a liner, concrete is more time consuming and can be very demanding, Dan Everton compares the merits of each method.
With the advent of modern plastics, liner and pre-formed ponds have overtaken concrete as the preferred method for constructing ponds, each has its own merits and this comparison will enable you to make up your own mind.
Have a plan in mind of what you want to achieve and outline the desired shape with rope or sand. Then you can start digging.
Create shelves at different depths to accommodate various types of aquatic plants, perhaps very shallow at 2ins, then 5 inches and wide enough to hold containers, and 18 inches. Overall depth should be at least 2 ft and 4 ft if you want to keep fish.
It might sound obvious but make sure that the liner you purchase is the correct size for the pond you are building. Measure the length, width and depth of the pond. Then, double the depth and add the length and width. Now add 2 feet for overlapping the pond edge. This will give you the correct size.
The hole must be level so use a spirit level balanced on a block of wood to check all around the sides. Remove any sharp stones or tree roots that may pierce the liner.
Now line the hole with a layer of sand or other material such as old carpet. If possible warm the liner in sunlight to make it more flexible and shape it into the hole, try to keep wrinkles to a minimum and add a little water to help settle it into place.
Slowly fill with water making sure the liner doesn’t stretch. Trim off any excess liner above the water line and use mortar to fix patio stones or similar around the pond edge to keep the liner in place.
Place the pond (the correct side up, not upside down) where it is to be positioned and mark out by drawing around the shape in sand. Next measure the shelves. Then dig out the shape including the shelves but adding about 5cm to the depth to allow for a lining of sand.
Remove any stones or roots as they might pierce the liner. Then place the liner into the hole and adjust the shape if necessary, making sure it is level (use a spirit level balanced on a piece of wood across the width and length of the pond). Once you are satisfied the shape is correct, line the hole with the sand and return the pond and it should fit snugly.
When you are sure the pond is level, use sand to back fill and compact it to prevent the pond from moving as it is filled with water.
However carefully installed there’s always a chance of some movement, so once filled, leave the pond for at least one week before adding edging stones, plants or other features.
First the hole needs to be dug, about 6 inches below what will be the final depth, making sure that the levels, angles and sides are accurately measured - a formal pond needs to look exactly true.
Then dig a trench, about 4 inches deep by 8 inches across, around the sides at the base of the hole and fill this trench with concrete to provide foundations for the walls.
With the bottom of the hole level, add a layer of sand, compact it firmly adjacent to the wall foundations, and lay 3 inches of concrete. Allow to dry, then add some galvanised mesh and pour another 3 inches of concrete on top.
Once the cement has dried use breeze blocks to form the walls, filing in any gaps and hollows with concrete.
After 48 hours, dampen the walls and skim the entire hole with a ½ inch layer of fibre reinforced cement. Next, use mortar to fix an edging of bricks and slabs, allowing for a 2 or 3 inch overhang. Paint the inside with a good quality waterproof sealant, when that is dry you can introduce water.
Finally, bear in mind that for all types of pond, filters, lights and other features will need electrical and hose connections, so remember to allow space for these while adding any edging materials.
For information on how to introduce plants into your pond, read our blog 'How To Transform Your Pond With Plants'.
Here in Birmingham, the weather has been as changeable as ever, very warm just before Easter followed by a cold spell only last week. During May the threat of further frost will largely pass and, with spring well under way, Robert Hall is in no doubt that this is going to be a busy month in the garden.
The weather forecast is for a sizzling summer and David Coton is already looking forward to preparing delicious barbecued food for his family and friends. Barbecues have become incredibly popular over recent years and here is David's guide on what to look out for when choosing one of these summer essentials.
Sheds of any kind are ubiquitous in the British garden and, due to their popularity, there are plenty to choose from. David Coton explores the basic considerations that need to be taken into account before purchasing one.
Robert Hall, senior partner at GardenSite.co.uk has been elected to sit on the Garden Industry Manufacturers Association (GIMA) Judging Panel for 2017. The news was announced on 31st March 2017 on the GIMA website.